What's so great about the fret saw?

The coping saw has a special feature: it can cut curves – something that's not so easy with most other handsaws like a fine-toothed saw, Japanese saw, or dovetail saw. Wood usually comes in rectangular shapes, whether as boards, panels, or strips. However, many objects have rounded or curved shapes. Of course, you can round off corners and edges by sanding, filing, or rasping, but in some cases, sawing is the better option. The coping saw can handle almost any shape – provided the wood isn't too thick.

Important tips for fretwork with children

The right wood

Poplar plywood with a thickness between 4 mm and 6 mm is particularly well-suited for fretwork. Thinner sheets tend to vibrate excessively when sawing, while thicker sheets require more effort. Birch plywood is also a good choice; 3 mm thickness is acceptable due to its greater stability.

The right saw blades

Es gibt unterschiedliche Sägeblätter, je nachdem, ob man Holz, Metall oder Kunststoff (wie Plexiglas) bearbeiten möchte. Die Wahl der Blätter hängt auch von der Holzstärke ab. Für den Anfang sind mittelgrobe Standardblätter, etwa Taifun #5, eine gute Wahl. Generell gilt: Je dünner das Holz, desto feiner sollte das Sägeblatt sein. Feine Sägeblätter sorgen für weniger Ausrisse im Holz, allerdings braucht man damit auch mehr Geduld. Eine tolle Alternative besonders für Anfänger sind die gedrehten Sägeblätter Tornado.

Proper use of saw blades

A crucial point: The saw teeth must point downwards! The saw blade is first clamped to one side of the bow. Then, the saw is gently squeezed together, and the other end is secured. Resistance should be felt when sawing downwards.

Tensioning the saw blade can be a bit tricky, as it feels like you need three hands. But there are tricks: You can press the saw against the table with your body or have someone help you. If you have large hands, you might even be able to squeeze the frame together with one hand. It's even easier if you use a workbench or a vise to clamp the saw.

Simply get started

Especially at the beginning, you shouldn't make it too complicated. Start with simple shapes that don't require difficult corners or many changes of direction – circles or hearts, for example, are ideal for beginners.

Draw the shape correctly

Carefully draw the desired outline onto the wood using a soft pencil. The lines should be clearly visible so you can saw along them precisely.

Securely fasten wood

The wood should be clamped in place with a screw clamp so that the section to be cut overhangs. Always work in small sections and re-clamp the wood frequently as needed. If the wood vibrates strongly while sawing, allow less of the wood to overhang. Alternatively, a fret saw table can be used – however, this requires good coordination of both hands: one guides the saw, the other pushes the wood.

Gentle movement, little pressure

Don't press the saw too hard against the wood. Instead, work with a smooth, gentle up-and-down motion, tilting the saw slightly forward. The movement should be fluid, without any jerky stops – otherwise, unsightly marks will appear on the wood surface.

sawing on site

One of the main reasons for broken saw blades is binding in the wood. This often happens when the saw wobbles too much or when trying to cut corners directly. When changing direction, it helps to saw slightly up and down in place while slowly turning the saw in the new direction.

safety reserve

It's better to leave a little material and then correct the shape with sandpaper. This gives you a small buffer in case the wood splits or you're not perfectly precise when sawing.

Patience pays off

Perfection is not the goal – practice makes perfect! Every cut will improve over time, so be patient and have fun sawing.